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The Black Angel

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The art of Plumasserie is the labor-intensive craft of cutting, dyeing, and applying feathers by hand, typically on very expensive clothing and accessories.  The tradition dates back to French Haute Couture houses from the 1800’s, and has very few practitioners today – it’s almost and extinct skill, with very few luxury houses feathering their products.  A few still do, and that keeps Maxime Leroy going; he’s the master plumassier behind a revival of the craft with a contemporary twist.
The Sacco Baret / Blitz Motorcycles collaboration ‘The Black Angel’

We caught up with Maxime Leroy at the Grand Palais in Paris, during the Révélations show, the International Biennial of Fine Craft and Contemporary Creation.  We were invited to see his collaboration with Blitz Motorcycles of Paris on the ‘Black Angel’, an incredible helmet/bike combination of cut black feathering, hand-applied to leather, covering the helmet entirely (including laid-down quills for the Blitz lightning bolt logo), and the top of the fuel tank. The mix of feathers on the fuel tank is almost vulgar, with hydraulic tubes, air vents, and fuel lines contrasting with the organic delicacy of the hand-cut and hand-dyed goose feathers.

The fuel tank of the Blitz ‘Black Angel’ – almost vulgar in its contrast between the organic and mechanical.

LeRoy founded his own luxury brand M.Marceau, as well as Sacco Baret, a collaboration of Jayma Sacco, Maxime Leroy and Paul Baret.  All are exploring new venues for the old craft, and brands like Chanel, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier and Louis Vuitton have featured their incredible featherwork. Leroy was recently recognized internationally as “one of the most inspirational and influential artisans” in Olivier Dupon’s book “Encore! The New Artisans”.  He’s also been hired for an art installations at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo, for the exhibition ‘Double Je’.

‘Celine’ by Maxime Leroy for the ‘Double Je’ exhibit at the Palais de Tokyo

For ‘Double Je’, Maxime Leroy created a feathered Kawasaki Ninja – ‘Celine’ – as the heart of the exhibit, a large-scale installation of many artists’ work, themed around the crime-thriller novels of  Franck Thilliez.  ‘Celine’ is perhaps the most haute-couture motorcycle ever built, and perhaps the most evil-looking!  We can honestly say there’s never been a helmet like this, nor motorcycles like these!

The helmet for the Blitz ‘Black Angel’
The helmet deserves scrutiny, as the detail is simply amazing.
The tank top of ‘Celine’ – all feathers and quills!
Maxime LeRoy from the website of his couture brand M.Marceau

 

 


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